It really depends on how much margin of safety is built into the Cars Electric circuit.

14W is not that much. I have seen people With factory fog lamps with the Hella H3 Bulb get into trouble. Most Aftermarket are the 55w Bulb while the factory uses 35w. Thing is that the 55w usually gets more space on the rack and with this bulb they just go off of the H3 denominator and so they pick up 55w or heaven forbid 100w and end up frying their whole system.

It is mostly the switches that take the beating if the fuses don't go.

My F250 has a plow setup and the harness wires into only one headlight to feed power to the plows headlights.

The off side is disconnected and capped and the plow harness feeds the truck lights and the Plow lights, and when the plow is hooked up the truck lights are off so it is not pulling more watts. But all the power is only coming from the single light socket so that socket and wire is now carrying twice the power since it is feeding two lamps now either the plow lamps or the truck lamps. It handles it.

So usually it is the switches that bear the grunt of the problem and on a new foreign car it means the column mount switch which are expensive and hard to replace.

You are adding just over/about one amp to each circuit so it really depends on the switch. Wiring/socket can take it. a Fuse is designed to have some overage in the system and are really designed to blow on something like a ground out and power surge, So adding a continuous one amp more draw to a fuse won't blow it. It is with the switch that a continuous higher draw will start showing problems as switches are usually rated pretty close to their function and will heat up over time if a large enough margin is not built into it. Which means it might take a month or maybe a year or never of going off and on that the switch might and I say might wear out prematurely. But it depends on that 1 amp and switch is where you will have a problem if it does show..