Colossi of Memnon, guarding the passage to Theban Necropolis; west-bank's section of Luxor, Egypt. 1300BC [1250x850]

Egypt is the worst for this. My parents brought me to Luxor when I was 11 (Summer 2001) because I was obsessed with Ancient Egypt as a kid. Two things stayed with me;

  1. That the valley of the kings as viewed from the hotel on the Nile is one of the most jaw droppingly beautiful and picturesque sights you can imagine.

  2. Crying horribly the first day because of all the immediate harassment from these guys the minute you step off the plane. On the one hand, you want to help everybody you see by buying things because there’s so much poverty everywhere, but on the other, everyone’s so aggressive about everything. They push kids into selling all kinds of crap to white tourists because they know how sad it looks.

Your guilt isn’t lessened either by the way the hotels treat their Egyptian staff and the way you’re ferried about everywhere with armed guards. We stayed at the Hilton and had this really nice waiter named Muhammad every night, so on our last night we wanted to get a picture of the family with him. He was so sketchy about it. He said the staff aren’t supposed to interact with the guests.

Egypt’s an incredible place to visit but it can feel threatening in a way other Arab/Muslim majority countries I’ve since visited didn’t at all.

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