Ever felt like surfing has taken over your life?

Story time: My dad drove us up for a contest in Seaside, Oregon in 1977. We stopped at Tree's of Mystery and then at False Klamath. Surf was 3-4, peaky and really fun looking.

Why not? My brother and I suited up and got some fun ones for an hour. Mom was taking pictures from up on the Hobbit trail and a few weeks later back in Venice, we were looking at photo's from the trip. In a picture of my brother and I sitting waiting for waves, there were two large sharks maybe 50 yards outside of us.

I have surfed there over the years, the rivermouth too. But always legs up, eyes wide open.

If you ever feel like dying, there is another spot around the corner to the south. Take the Hobbit trail about three hundred yards, there is a well marked trail down to a small beach. North end of that beach has a slab that breaks often. Friends I have have paddled out there but never got a wave. It breaks at medium tides and up, its out of the north wind and looks like Shark Island. But even in my prime and as perfect as it is...nope.

There are three other reefs off that trail to the rivermouth we have surfed. Bring a friend though. Shit goes wrong, its going to be bad.

Beautiful thing about Nothern California (State of Jefferson), still so many truly wild spots.

/r/surfing Thread Parent