Go to youtube and watch videos on how to do it and use the search function on Pipe Makers Forum for specific questions. And look through the forums for large threads on how to do stuff. If you want to join the forumn you have to email the admins(theyve had spam issues) . I didnt know this and forgot my login by the time I found out. I know this sounds like a shitty, off the bat reply but once you get things figured out its really easy.
If you lift, bruh and have massive gains you can make pipes with a hacksaw, files and a drill. If you want to make things easy you will want to invest in a lathe. You can use a wood lathe but as some mention, its harder to make stems on it. They are easy to come by and around $200-300. While a metal lathe is more expensive, it offers tight quality control and precision.
Especially for turning thousandths of an inch off acrylic rods to fit the tenon. Powerfeeds(the carrige will advance at a set rate) make life a while lot easier if you want a consistant finish or have a jerky hand. BUT VFH has a tenon turning tool which looks really easy to use.
For a woodlathe check Ebay, Amazon, Craigslist, Woodcraft(the chain of wood working stores) or your local Lowes/Home Depot.
For a Metal Lathe look on Craigslist, Ebay, Amazon, Sears.com or your local industrial supply store. These are heavy basterds so if you order online it will be shipped via truck. Your house must be truck accessible (no bridges or powerlines lower than 13-6) or weight/dimension restricted roads(check local regulations). I don't know if it comes in a box truck, or a tractor with a pup, 48' or 53' trailer so that should be considered too. If you fo on Craigslist you will need to have a few friends help yoy move it. I suggest luring them in with burgers and beer. Learn what options you have in a lathe such as swing over bed, swing over carrige, distances between head and tail stock, VFD, DRO, Quick Change tool post, how easy it is to change spindle speeds. Also what type of wear and tear the Ways have and how true it runs if buying used. Expect to invest $700. Grizzly and South Bend makes some nice lathes from what Ive heard. As well as older American made machines.
Some on the forums will recommend their preference, and contradicting info so take your time. Learn about what makes a good lathe vs bad one.
Personally I have an 8×14 LatheMaster set up on a craftsman tool chest. It's 2 inches away from being 'too short' and not on a 'sturdy table' according to the forum guys talking points. Funny thing is I have tons of room to work with and it runs as true as my young eyes can see. Like I said, they can post some personal views so take your time.
Now for the tooling. Expect it to be half the cost, if not more than the lathe. What I done is gone to VFH and bought:
A Chamber Spade bit for the bowl. They have many sizes. Personally I like big bowls and I cannot lie. So I have a 7/8" and a 1"
5/32" drill bit for the airway. They have ones with a taper, and many sizes. Again this is preference. I don't know what the difference in results are.
Buffing wheel kit you can chuck and buff.
Countersink tool to put a chamfer on the airhole/shank/ mortice end/ what the fuck ever.
Other junk: powder dye, acrylic rodstock.
My local Woodcraft has $1.99 short pieces of acrylic. They are great to get a hang of the material.
Get yourself a paded/foam sanding wheel with a hook and loop design(essentually you velcro the sanding paper to the pad) that comes down at an angle so you can sand the hard to reach areas. I got this one with paper going from 60, 80, 120,220, 80p grit paper.
From Amazon or hardware store: 5/16" HSS drill bit to drill out the air hole in the tenon for the stem. This is preference. I just went with the forum peoples recommendations.
Presharpened tool bits to stary with. Learn what makes each tool a special little snowflake and how it is to be used. South Bend Lathe Works has a section on this PDF You can make your own with High Speed Steel bars an an 80 grit grinding stone. This will require additional reading. Or you can get tool bits with Carbide Inserts.
From Ebay Briar Ebauchons. The older the better, apparently. Green blocks still have sap that will effect taste.
*Other general bullshit: Dremel for fine work(just got one because I do abhorrent work sanding the mouth piece part of the stem), varneer calipers(probably mispelled that. Theyre the sciencey precision measuring device) a right angle, vise grip.
Trust me, the reading, and figuring shit out is the hard part.
The End.