All of this is correct but the main thing that contributes to currents and rips is the shape of the sandbanks, points or reefs. It’s simple - shallow areas will cause waves to break and as a result, energy will be pushing through those areas. All of the water and energy that is pushing flows over the shallow areas and pulls out through the deeper areas. At most beaches you will have sandbanks that are divided up by deeper troughs that run through them. The rip will be where the deep trough is.

Sometimes you may have a gutter that runs parallel to the beach, in between the shoreline and the sandbank. This creates a rip that will pull you down the beach instead of out. Every time you are in the water you are either being pushed along the sandbank by the waves, or pulled out in a rip.

Source: lifeguard and surf instructor for 5 years