Chiming in to say that warped rotors aren't the only cause of this (personal experience). Before you spend a small fortune on rotors and a brake job, try finding a mechanic who actually has a dial indicator and can confirm lateral runout (a measure of how parallel the friction surfaces of the discs are). Warped rotors on street cars are typically caused by uneven brake material transfer due to clamping down on the brakes at a stop for a long period of time, which causes the parts uncovered by the brake caliper to cool at a different rate. In the odd case, rotors will physically warp (especially on extremely cheap brands with incorrect formulations of the iron). Both result in the same feeling in the steering wheel and/or pedal.

Typical specs are 0.002" of lateral runout for most cars before the problems are noticeable, and in that case, try indexing your current rotor to the hub (matching high spots to the low spots). Feel free to PM me and I can link you to some solid youtube videos for reference.

My method of diagnosis for this would be a) roadforce balance (assesses the wheel and tire as a complete assembly under a load wheel, helping to eliminate it as a cause), b) lateral runout check with dial indicator, c) indexing the rotor to the hub, and then d) checking other components like CV shaft failing or LCAs on their way out like my old car did (https://www.raxles.com/troubleshooting.aspx).

Godspeed!