I'm at a well-known online program that is synchronous. This means that we attend live at the scheduled time each week.
A lot of the work is discussions for my program. A lot of readings. The essays have not been that bad really. The worst so far has been this semester for a 10-12 page paper but I've done more in undergrad.
From I hear from my friends who did an MPH, it is similar. Just talking about a lot of shit.
I've had three classes that had "tests" where we needed to show knowledge. It was for stats, research methods, and a clinical class. We were required to be proctored via webcam for it.
I won't disclose which program I'm at, but if you have an option and the time/money I would go for a synchronous program.