Ah okay, so the main issue is likely projection. None of these bras are going to be projected enough for you, I don't think. What's happening is that your breasts need a lot of space right at the wire and since these bras don't have that space, your breasts push the whole bra down because they're looking for more room which is at the apex. Because of this, no matter how tight the band or straps are, it will be a shape mismatch. Typically those with quite projected breasts don't get along great with any molded options that aren't from Poland, unfortunately. It's the nature of the beast.

Also, the calculator we use here spits out suggested UK sizes. Natori uses US sizing and Chantelle uses French sizing. The Natori you got (in 32G) is equivalent to a UK 32F, and the Chantelle (in 32F) is equivalent to a UK 32E. So, just keep that in mind going forward. It sounds like you've figured out that the UK 32F is a better match for you, volume-wise.

I know unlined bras can be a little bit out of the comfort zone for some people, but I think you would fare well in either Panache Jasmine or Envy. Panache tends to run fairly firm, so I'd suggest trying a 34E and a 32F in them if you can. They're usually available on Amazon Prime if you want to get in on free shipping and returns, though it looks like they're retailing there at full price right now. These bras are great for projection right at the wire and they both have a stretchy upper lace section that can compensate for any size changes during the month and lowers the risk of quadboob/minor shape weirdness. Both of these bras should also do a better job of pushing your boobs more front and center and less east/west.