Before doing something like this, here is a comment from /u/Buck-0 in the x-post.

Yeah, so, a house is a completely tied together structure, that was built according to plans that were heavily scrutinized by a structural engineer, who did the math on all the load bearing, stresses, and calculated and structural integrity of the building. Even going so far as to name the specific type of nails used to accommodate any of the sheering forces that a joint may encounter. So that end, the actual load put on an individual piece of timber is not as high as you might think. As the weight of even a single roof truss is spanned over 2-3 load bearing studs, all of which tied together with a large header. Not to mention the majority of the load is compression load, something wood is very good at, and not lateral loading, something wood is not good at. With his "rack", he used two 2x6 planks glued and screwed together. We never see the screws he uses, but judging from the rest of the materials used, I seriously doubt he used a structurally rated screw with a high sheer value. Additionally, even with the glue, he is using the narrow 4" edge of the pair to hold the weight, not the 6" edge. This will cause the wood to bow out under load. Especially when hanging weight off of a single side of it, with the individual small "hangers" (more on the hangers later). The better solution would have been to use a solid 6x6 pressure treated post, or better yet, and 8x8 post, which can withstand the lateral forces of that kind of weight hanging off one side of its face. Likewise, because of the way he drilled the holes into the face, he has severely weakened the structure. There are "rule of thumb" ratios for the size of hole you can drill before a stud fails, if I remember correctly, tis three times the width of the hole in material. It looks like he surpasses that, but even still, the wood is weaker than it was, and no where near as strong as a solid 6x6 post would be with the same hole. Just look at any wooden post freeway sign. There is usually a series of 3-4 holes drilled into the bottom of the support posts to allow the base to sheer off should a car ever hit it. Not that he is ever planning on having any cars go through the basement, but...you get the idea. The hangers are really a mess. Dangerous as hell. Literally the kind of thing that could seriously hurt someone. First of all, threaded 3/4" pipe, is in no way structural. The safety bars on a real squat rack are solid cold rolled steel bars, and weigh at least 30-40 pounds a piece. They are solid all the way through, and tempered in a way that they will bend minimally under heavy weight, and be a bit springy to absorb impact, rather than fold in half, or shatter under stress. A pipe is going to either break, or shatter, it was never meant to take that kind of weight, more or less at that angle, and at that velocity. More than likely, it would fail at the threads, sheering off clean. With the way he has the small individual "racker" bars made, he is going to seriously hurt himself. Not only is the face of the rack going to bow from the bar weight, but the only thing keeping the bar in place is a couple of shitty penetration spot welds, and a flush mount conduit pipe receptacle. One good thumping from racking a heavily weighted bar, and the threads on the end, where the receptacle is attached, will fail and sheer off, and the bar will drop. Or the back side of the pipe, with a simple pipe cap (which is again, not a structural piece), will have its threads fail, sheer off, and the bar will drop. Repeated stressing over time will only make the likelihood of this all the more certain. So the idea that "hes done is 20 times before, it will be just fine 20 after" doesn't really work here. Metal fatigue is a real thing, especially on cheaply cast metal never designed to support any kind of load, more or les a couple hundred pound squat bar. To make matters even worse, these poor building techniques continue with his "bench". He over supports the center span of the bench, and completely ignores supporting the lateral structure at all what so ever. The seat top has nothing supporting the sides at all, which is bad enough by itself. But then the feet have nothing to prevent them from ripping clean out of the center leg, and the bench collapsing, from any kind of significant lateral force. A couple of 90 degree 2x4 wedge blocks at either end of the bench seat, to tie it to the center leg, and a couple of mitered 2x4 lateral supports on each side of the leg, extending to at least the mid-span of the foot, would secure it all nicely. At least that is the one salvageable thing here. Using the excuse that "your house is made from it" is the dumbest analogy ever. A properly built structure has little to do with the materials used, and everything to do with how those materials are utilized, and stressed to the parameters of the materials best use scenario though compression or tension. A prime example of this, is your knee joint. You can squat several hundred pounds with the average knee joint. Through proper compressive force and good bio mechanics while performing the lift. Yet a small child can tackle that same knee from the side, and completely blow it out, rendering it useless. Everything material works one way, but not another, and that is where solid engineering comes in. This DIY squat rack is not solidly engineered...in fact there is nothing resembling engineering here at all, just a lot of bad choices to make it look good enough to seem like it could get the job done. This is an unsafe structure, and by all rights and reason, should not be used until it is heavily modified, and/or rebuilt to a more proper level of safety for its intended use.