Please read this whole thing. I know it's alot but I'm it may help your problem

So, I think a true FTF could indicate slight out-of-battery or perhaps firing pin/hammer woes.

Quick checklist for assembled gun

1

Drop an unfired round into barrel, with bolt locked back and safety on, and finger off trigger. The round should chamber 100% in the rifle and also fall out under its own weight, when you turn the gun over. If it does not you may have chamber issues as others have said. Inspect and compare several fired brass casings for irregular wear/scratches or irregularities as it is being chambered. This would indicate burrs or rough chambers that would hinder complete chambering as other have noted.

2

Check firing pin condition and shape.The face of your firing pin should look as shown [here] (shinier pin on top with obvious bevel) (http://i.imgur.com/Am8frFj.gif). Here's another view. If the pin is slightly larger on top or bottom or not beveled evenly you will likely have unreliable ignition. Note how the beveled face is perfectly rectangle and is not a triangle shape that is thinner on the top or bottom.

What else could be wrong?. Where do you live and are you on a outdoor range? I wasn't aware of my issue until firing my gun in 10 degree weather. I had a slightly mishapen firing pin. The ammo/gun worked fine in 90 degree summertime when primer is sensitive and brass casings are slightly more ductile. My current OEM firing pin has a straighter bevel and slightly 'sharper' with a smaller face. My 1022 workslike a dream in the cold now, as it should.

Check bolt, barrel, extractor With fireamr unloaded, inspect boltface and where it contacts the barrel, make sure extractor channel is lined up with the extractor channel on the barrel and has clearance on both top and bottom. Make sure extractor is seated firmly and also check range of motion with extractor and extractor plunger. When the bolt is closed against the barrel make certain that the extractor is not visible within the tiny area that the case/rim would occupy. It should 'dissapear' fully within the extractor groove when bolt is fully forward.

Take gun apart and look where your hammer contacts firing pin on the bolt. Make sure your firing pin slides very easily within the firing pin channel and is not gritty at all traveling it full range of motion. If so, remove firing pin and polish it. Makes sure hammer swings good and is also free of gritiniess.

DYI fix the firng pin If you wanted to you could verrrrrrrrrrrrry very very very lightly sharpen/sand a bevel onto your firing pin so the force is concentrated onto a smaller area. Caution: too much will make it pierce rims though. Only do this if the face of the firing pin is not sharp or beveled evenly.

Critical and EXTRA free bonus tip With your gun apart check your hammer strut. It's fairly important to make sure that the hammer strut washer (the thing that retains the hammer spring) is put back into the trigger assembly facing the right way. The opening on the strut washer should face upward when put back into the trigger assembly. It is possible for the hammer spring strut to drag and lessen the force of the hammer blow when the notch is facing down, thereby creating light hammer strikes/FTF an making an already-weak ignition even more questionable. PLEASE CHECk this anyways, as some rifles will very likely come from the factory with this part facing the incorrect way The one shown here is just how you want it in your rifle, facing up.

Bonus tips DO get a VQ extractor, may not help this particular issue but you they're simply amazing to have. They also make extra power hammer springs, maybe not necessary. Definetly not neccesary are aftermarket or titanium or gold plated firing pins. The humble OEM firing pins are only $4. Buy one or two if your current one is even slightly misshapen. Consider polishing the trigger parts if you have an hour to kill it will improve trigger a bunch. Look up '25 cent' or 'DIY 1022 trigger job'