All those posts with video grabs of Surfline feeds made me look for my own rides from yesterday. Lo and behold, I managed to find myself 3 times yesterday morning, and I'm wondering if I could get some tips on how to improve. https://youtu.be/ZJMe58JluX0 For all 3 rides, I'm closest to center of the screen. For the 3rd ride, I'm furthest right (on the wave), going right.

All morning, and most other days too, I feel like I'm too far down on the bottom of the wave before I can really get going down the line. Like the wave has broken in front of me and I can't really get a long ride out of it. Yesterday did have some closeout type waves, so I don't think I'm totally blowing it, but I feel like I could do better. Other people were, so I'm sure it's possible.

Be gentle, I've only been surfing since April.