The Honda Civic just might be the reason this magazine exists. Yes, people modified small cars before the iconic Civic came around, but never had the sport compact market been taken by such storm than when the 1988 Civic and CRX models hit U.S. shores. On went three-spoke wheels, makeshift intakes and clear corner-lamps faster than aftermarket manufacturers could keep up. It was a car that enthusiasts could afford, a car that had potential.
For little more cash than a nicely equipped Vespa, the Civic offered enthusiasts a fully independent suspension, a capable chassis and the biggest import aftermarket known to man. With a build quality second to none, the dependable D16 powerplant was good for giga-miles of worry-free driving.
This is probably why the Civic is still one of the most popular compact cars on the road. That, and the fact that you can have an older one for a cash investment of less than a pair of tennis shoes.
With so many Civics made (used factory engines are readily available from junkyards for around $350), they're almost like disposable razors these days.
So why not turbocharge them? As the price of engine replacement continues to drop, people are pushing more and more air into stock engines-in an effort to determine when molten hunks of metal will do unintentional port work to the bottom end. 1994 Honda Civic Right Rear View
Some people have been able to push 10 psi through the stock block, which isn't bad at all.
The Options
Given the legendary following the Civic lays claim to, it's not hard to find a ready-made, bolt-on turbo kit that will net great horsepower with minimal modification. But we just have to be difficult-we want to do it for less than a grand. And as you can probably guess, you don't meet that goal with shiny off-the-shelf stuff.
No, you do it with rusty, oily junkyard stuff. There isn't a universally accepted formula for success, either. People have tried every turbocharger imaginable, and there are a few good options.
Unless you're pretty good with cutting and welding, the safest bet is to secure an exhaust manifold from a Civic HF or an EG Civic VX. These typically cost between $50 and $100, and make excellent candidates for the marriage of a simple adaptor plate (around $50 at your local muffler shop), allowing the bolt-on installation of a turbocharger.
A more advanced option is to purchase a log-style manifold from one of many sources online. The most expensive route is to use a stainless-steel tubular manifold. But we're cheap, so to the hell with those options.
A junkyard can offer hundreds of solutions for things to bolt onto the end of your new manifold, or, if you're less strapped for cash, you can even buy a number of turbochargers brand-new.
At the junkyard, you'll find boost options ranging from the Mitsubishi turbos found under the hood of the Eclipse, 3000GT and Galant VR-4, to the turbo from the Isuzu NPR diesel truck. 1994 Honda Civic Ecu
So where do you begin?
As a general rule, the way to pick your turbo is by engine size. Unless you can find a compressor map, it's the best thing you have to go by. Try to pick a car with a displacement as close to 1.6 liters as possible. You'll be lucky to find anything smaller than 1.8 liters with a turbo, but some turbochargers are versatile enough to perform over a wide displacement range, just moving the power curve up a few hundred rpm.
That said, there are a number of turbos that have been found to be good matches for the stock D-series engine. Depending on what your goals are, it's likely there's a turbo out there for you. We've centered in on a few quick spoolers for everyday boost, as well as some bigger snails for those whose budget allows for the necessary supporting mods.
On the smaller side of the useable options is the T25 found under the hood of the second-gen. Eclipse. This unit offers spectacular spool, making strong power to just shy of redline on a bone-stock D16. This turbo has been described by enthusiasts as feeling like a "powerful NA."
The turbo that is quite possibly the best match for the D16 powerplant is the TD05H-14B found on the first-generation Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon. It's a hair bigger than the T25 above, which means it spools slightly later, but makes strong power until redline and has the potential for bigger horsepower figures.
The turbo found in many SAAB applications is an undersized T3. Undersized for the 2.2-liter SAAB engine, that is. When it comes to a 1.6-liter Honda mill, we're in business. 1994 Honda Civic Left Front View
This T3 will make more power than either Eclipse/Talon option, but will spool around 500 rpm later. Most common junkyard SAAB T3 turbos are a .42/.48 A/R configuration, which tells us the size of the turbo's compressor and exhaust housings, respectively.
Despite taking a little longer to wake up than the DSM options, T3s with the .48 A/R exhaust snail offer excellent spool characteristics, start to make real boost at around 3000 rpm, and are able to hold boost until redline.
While these options are great for daily driving, autocrossing and road racing, there are options for the straight-line crowd as well.
If you are staying in the Garrett family, but want to go a little bigger, consider the .60/ .63 A/R T3. This unit features a larger .63 A/R exhaust housing that allows it to make more power, but at the expense of spooling about 500 rpm later than the smaller T3s.
Of course, to maximize return from the bigger options, you'll need the additional modifications to support their greater power potential, which means you'll need more money. Size your turbo based on the size of your budget. 1994 Honda Civic Turbo Manifold
T3 turbos can be found under the hood of most 85-86' Ford Thunderbird Turbocoupes. Automatic transmission cars came with the .48 A/R turbine housing, while stick-shift cars had the larger .63 exhaust snail.
The T3 found in the first-generation 300ZX Turbo is also a good option, and has been known push enough air to create around 250 wheel-hp.
The good news is that the turbochargers themselves all cost between $100 - $250, depending on condition, miles and how lucky you are.
Do's and Do Nots
It's never as easy as it seems to turbocharge a naturally aspirated car, and Honda's high-revving powerplants are hardly an exception to the rule.
Do Not block your entire radiator with your intercooler. Have you seen the size of your radiator?
Do use aftermarket high-flow radiator fans to aid cooling as much as possible.
What better sleeper could there be than a Honda Civic? Thanks to thousands of over-lowered examples equipped with manhole-size exhaust systems, fluorescent-green windshield wipers and purple headlights, nobody expects a whooshing, popping onslaught of boost. And if there's a frugal way to learn how to modify cars, this has got to be it. The car costs less than the parts used to modify it.
Honda Civic Coupe Engine Engine Code: D16Z6
Type: In-line four, aluminum block and head, turbocharged and intercooled
External Modifications: Nissan 280ZX turbo, custom built 2 in. log manifold, Street Imports front mount intercooler and aluminum radiator, Custom 2.5 in. downpipe and exhaust, Tial 35mm wastegate, Stealthmode oil lines, McCord exhaust cut-out, Greddy Type-S BOV, MSD Blaster Coil and Cap
Engine Management Modifications: DSM 390cc/min. injectors, Walbro 255 lph in-tank fuel pump, GReddy Profec-B boost controller, PLX Devices M-300 wideband, Chipped P28 ECU with Uberdata 1.7
Drivetrain Layout: Transverse front engine, front-wheel drive
Suspension Front: L-Con traction bars
External Wheels: 14x6 in. Integra GS-RTires: 195/60-14 Falken Ziex