posted Apr 03, 2017 09:54 AM
BUCKET LIST 3.0 - Sbicca Restaurant, Del Mar, California (4/1/2017)
The theme for this event was "Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and Rhone, at least 20 years old, $150-ish and up." Some of these wines truly belong on even the most well-heeled wine lover's bucket list: the best of the best. The rest were merely outstanding. Of course bucket list is a vague term, since it could be a long list or a short one, depending on the time available before the proverbial bucket is kicked.
We met once again at Sbicca in Del Mar, in the private room upstairs in back. We popped the first bottle of champagne in time to toast a magnificent sunset over the ocean. It was wonderful to see long-time members of our group, and to meet some newcomers as well.
Wines were tasted non-blind. Rankings are by group vote; tasting notes and point scores are my own. White wines Tasted at the beginning of the evening, except for the sauternes, which was tasted last.
1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Clear light straw color with persistent fine bead. Initial yeastiness leading into a glorious bouquet of bright fresh Meyer lemon, green apple, lemon blossom, fresh croissant, hint of chalk. Similar on the palate, fresh and pure, with laser-like acidity. Seems quite youthful. Racer117 says he will let his other bottle rest for another several years based on tonight's showing. My #1; group's SECOND PLACE in this flight. (97 pts.)
1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Clear yellow color with fine bead, subsiding after 20 minutes. A much more mature, evolved wine, visually and to the nose and palate, than the 1996 Salon tasted just prior. Notes of butterscotch, yellow apple, mushroom, dried chamomile, old limestone. Some initial stuffiness that improved with air. On the palate, this was full bodied, just a huge powerhouse of a wine, wearing the patina of age like an old king. After an hour, the wine was much more fresh, with notes of pure lemon oil, but by this time the bubbles were gone. My #2; group's FIRST PLACE in this flight. Thanks ShaneT! (97 pts.)
2013 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Clear light straw color. Notes of white flowers, lemon, grapefruit pith, apple, quinine, crushed chalk. Several people noted some white pepper and hazelnut. Seems young and primary. I would like to re-visit in several years. (93 pts.)
2014 J.L. Chave Sélection St. Joseph Circa - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Clear straw color. Bouquet of white peach, peach blossom, apple blossom, nougat, vanilla bean, beeswax. Similar on the palate, fresh and pure, with slightly herbal quinine finish. Seems youthful. I wonder whether this will shut down, as some white rhones do around age four. (92 pts.)
1998 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Clear light honey-gold color. Sinful, lustful, decadent bouquet of coconut oil, almond oil, allspice, apricot jam, orange blossom honey. Similar on the palate, rich, unctuous, viscous, with lingering finish. A powerful aphrodisiac, to be enjoyed sparingly, for seducing and being seduced; not for anyone taking a vow of chastity, or a vow of anything, really. My #2 and group's THIRD PLACE in this flight. (97 pts.)
Red wines
1991 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Decanted. Clear medium-deep ruby-brick red. Glorious, expansive bouquet of bright fresh raspberries and red cherries, rhubarb, Chambord, potpourri, roses, black tea, hints of pinot musk and clean animal fur. Similar on the palate, robust full body, seamless, beautifully balanced. My #3 in this flight. (94 pts.)
1997 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Decanted. Clear medium deep dark garnet-blood red color. Exuberant bouquet of juicy red fruit, cedar chips, herbs de provence, hints of bacon fat and stony soil. Similar on the palate, full body, seamless, beautiful balance, long finish. Alongside 1990 Rostaing, this was showier, more flamboyant. If Rostaing was wearing Brooks Brothers, Guigal was wearing Versace tonight. My #2, group's SECOND PLACE in this flight. (96 pts.)
1990 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Decanted. Clear deep garnet color, not quite as dark as 1997 Guigal La Turque tasted alongside. Superb bouquet of mixed red fruit, herbs, light bacon fat, stony soil. Similar on the palate, seamless, elegant, with medium-full body, superb balance. Refined and mellow, kept up with the Guigal just fine, though more subdued in style. Group's THIRD PLACE in this flight. (94 pts.)
1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Allowed to breathe in bottle 3 hours, then decanted 1 hour before service. Clear dark garnet color. Classic bouquet of black fruit, cigar tobacco, creme de cassis, hints of saddle leather, fresh flowers, barnyard, oyster shell, salt marsh, stony soil. Similar on the palate, full body, seamless, balanced, long finish. Rustic perhaps, but everything I love about mature bordeaux. My #1 in this flight. (96 pts.)
1990 Château Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Decanted. Clear dark garnet color. Magnificent bouquet of mixed black and red fruit, licorice, fennel, hints of old leather, cigar humidor, and flowers. Similar on the palate, full body, seamless, classic balance, long finish. Perhaps some palate fatigue was setting in at this point in the evening. I was very impressed, but not quite as wowed as my colleagues, who would score this wine closer to Parker's rating than mine. Group's FIRST PLACE in this flight. Thanks ShaneT! (94 pts.)
1988 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Decanted. Clear dark garnet color. Funky bouquet of mud flats, oyster shells, mixed black fruit, black olives. Similar on the palate, medium-full body, balanced. Funkiness persisted throughout the evening. Nice old bordeaux with plenty of personality. (92 pts.)