Hydroponic grows are good for bud weight, and you can go away for a few days without worrying about your plants dying once its running reliably.
Actually, I would argue (based on experience) that hydro grows require MUCH more attention than an outdoor grow. Lights, constant nutes, temps, humidity levels. Sure you can automate it all. But most don't. Even so, when you are growing indoors you are responsible for every aspect of the grow. That's many more points of failure.
Also, you get much better weight outdoors. Just not as dense sometimes, and not as potent. This depends on your climate and soil. The details are now out of your hands for the most part and you are leaving it all to nature.
That being said. . .
but don't rib on cannabis grown in the sunshine.
No indoor grow will ever be able to achieve the potential that an outdoor grow has. The lumens from the sun cannot be matched indoors, and it is nearly impossible to ensure that your plants are receiving the full spectrum of nutrients in the proper ratios with a hydroponic grow.
If you have good soil produced from organic manures and compost, and are in an area that gets plenty of sun and the proper temps and humidity. . . that is much better than what you could produce on any indoor grow.
Outdoor certainly has a MUCH higher potential for both quality and weight. It's just that most people doing outdoor grows care more about weight than quality. It takes too much work to prepare nutrient rich soil for plant that big.
Shitty soil = shitty outdoor.
Making your own soil is labor intensive and time consuming. Buying your own soil is expensive. That is why most just take their chances with the dirt under their feet. Which is generally lacking in several areas.
Sativas are difficult to grow indoors, and hydroponically grown cannabis (even when flushed properly) tends to taste over-fertilized.
You feed them chemicals, they will taste like chemicals.
Most commercial weed is hydro, and it tends to be lowest-common denominator indica-dominated hybrid dutch-style weed.
Not in California, and therefore the US. Outdoor weed far outnumbers indoor weed in california. Especially NorCal. Everyone in the emerald triangle are producing TONS of weed every year. To produce that indoors would require more KWs than CA + NV can produce.
On a commercial warehouse grow, you're not going to get any better than 1 oz/ft2, and that's going to be expensive.
Put those same plants out in a field, and you'll have 2 lbs/plant with a fraction of the effort.
The best indoor cannabis is grown in large pots in soil with organic soil amendments. Potency is totally dictated by genetics, and the stage of flowering at which the weed is harvested.
None of this is true. "Organic" means you are using microbes (and worms and other small bugs) to turn organic material (unabsorbable by plant roots) into excreted chemicals (absorbable).
This means that you need organic material (compost, manures, etc) and a LOT of bugs, worms, nematodes, etc etc INSIDE. So now you have to create an environment for the critters to survive in.
It's just not really feasible inside. That is why I always laugh at people claiming to grow "Organic Indoor". It's just not really a thing. And if it is attempted, the quality is almost always poor. Because it's just not easy to create an organic environment indoors under fake lights with human controlled climate.
And no, the potency isn't strictly determined by genetics. That would mean that all you have to do is get a clone of a 25% (the record) THC plant, and stick it in the ditch and you would have bud with 25% THC. This is obviously not the case. Not the case at all.
The THC is in the Resin. The resin production is determined by the climate. Light levels and nutrient levels tell the plants to produce certain hormones (auxins). These hormones tell the plant that it's getting late in the season and they need to produce more resin in hopes of catching some pollen before the season is over. That is why some people advocate for stressing the plants out at the end of the flowering period, in order to trick the plant into thinking it is dying and putting all effort into producing resin for a last ditch effort to reproduce.
(Yes, I'm a specialist meth vendor. But I was a cannabis breeder for 12 years).
I can see why you changed professions.
No offense.
As for blotter LSD, its very difficult to dose LSD onto paper accurately, and even harder to quantify it analytically. Anywhere from 50% to 150% of the stated dose isn't too bad at all.
Actually it's incredible simple.
First you need to know how big your drops are. So you take your dropper bottle (Visine!) and fill it with distilled water and carefully count out 100 drops into a graduated cylinder. This usually comes to about 5-5.1 mL. We'll call it 5 even for the sake of math.
Now you weigh out exactly 100mg of raw LSD crystal. You dump that into 50 mL of distilled water. You now have 10 vials worth of 100mcg hits. You put 5 ml into each visine bottle and just like that you have a 100 dose vial @ 100 mcg.
Not difficult at all.
If you want to make blotter, you simply buy your blotter, place it into a tray with the same circumference as your blotter. If you have 500 hit sheets, you simply dissolve 50mg of crystal in enough distilled water to soak the entire sheet. You then let the water evaporate out.
Now you have 500 doses at 100mcg. (Note that the LSD actually gets sucked to the outside of the blotter, so the outside is always more potent than the inside, but this is unavoidable unless you want to dose individual tabs).
And before anyone says anything about grain alcohol or any other solvents, if your crystal doesn't dissolve in distilled water, it's not close to pure. Throw it out. You have amber and it will fuck up your spine.
LSD is tryptamine, and tryptamine effects are steeply dose-dependant. The main thing is that all these results are LSD and not Nbombe.
LSD is not a tryptamine. Good god man.
Stick to meth.