A friend of mine projecting Brachial Plexus over the weekend

Hah, I'd never heard it called "train tracking" before, but that's what I meant when I was saying you have to clip yourself to the belay strand while you lower and then go for a huge swing when you unclip.

At any rate, that scenario is still fairly uncommon- most of the best overhanging routes at the red are very well bolted, the perma-gear is in the right places, and they usually have shuts at the top to lower off.

It also helps that the RRGCC is very vocal about the whole "lower vs rapp" etiquette thing, and their official stance is that high traffic routes have the fixed hardware replaced so often that it's a non-issue. Just do what you're most comfortable with given the conditions.

/r/climbing Thread Parent Link - i.redd.it