Get a roll of anti-static wrap from Staples, Home Depot, Amazon, etc., and cover your whole tabletop with it. Work in bare feet and short sleeves. The latter will cause you to frequently touch the anti-static wrap. It doesn't hurt if that wrap overhangs the tabletop so it's even more likely to come in contact with you. Lay out all the major parts on that anti-static surface.
Don't assemble everything and suddenly turn on the power because that can maximize the cost of any destruction. First assemble just enough to get the system working enough for you to see signs of life. That means power supply, motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler, one memory module, keyboard, mouse, and power button. Actually it's better to test the power supply before connecting it to anything by running the "paperclip test" LINK. If you want to play it really safe, substitute the bent paperclip with a resistor rated for around 200 to 300 ohms. Measure the voltages with a cheap digital multimeter (better and cheaper than a power supply tester), and let it run for a while.
Watch a few different videos before installing the CPU because it can be easy to bend pins or insert the CPU wrong. OTOH applying the heatsink grease isn't nearly a precise operation as the sellers of overpriced stuff want us to think. Use the nonconductive type, not anything containing silver because silver conducts electricity a bit and is messier.
Try to avoid junk memory. Almost all memory on the retail market is junk, meaning it's made from subprime chips or the chips are run faster than recommended by their manufacturers. Kingston HyperX Fury may be the closest thing to non-junk memory that doesn't cost a ton more than normal. BTW heatsinks are 100% useless and purely decorative, but some are so tall they won't fit under the CPU heatsink.
When installing the motherboard in the case, check the brass standoffs for alignment with the holes in the motherboard, and remove any standoffs that don't line up because they'll short the motherboard.
If you turn on the power but see nothing on the monitor screen, disconnect the AC power cord and plug and unplug the motherboard power connectors 10 times each, to clean the contacts. But if the computer boots normally, get into the BIOS setup right away and check the CPU temperature (health menu) because if it rises a lot, the CPU heatsink may not be seated completely.
It wouldn't hurt to run MemTest86 or MemTest86+ from a self-booting USB stick for an hour before proceeding further.
Do not update the BIOS until you verify that the system is 100% stable, and even then leave the BIOS alone unless the motherboard manufacturer reports a definite defect or compatibility issue that actually affects you, but wait until other people try the update and verify that it works because sometimes it doesn't. For example, a long time ago, one company put out a new BIOS that disabled mouse operation, reduced the maximum hard disk size from 32GB down to 8GB, and prevented floppy disk use (floppies were necessary in those days) if memory ECC was enabled. That company had also been issuing new driver software every couple of weeks, and one version managed to make any 2nd hard disk run 99% slower than normal.
Do not overclock your system during the first few weeks but do run a couple of different memory diagnostics every night then.