• Put a kennel pad in the carrier that fits it well so the bottom is cushy and doesn't move around much. Cats need something to grip with their claws to steady themselves while moving. A towel is better than nothing, but it will slide around and may frighten the cat further. I can usually find them for around $6.
• Spray the kennel mat with Feliway Comfort Zone spray. Do not spray the cat with it, just use as directed on the mat.
• Leave the kennel out all the time and make it a safe location. It should be a normal item the cat sees, not a harbinger of imminent battle. Mine stays near the food and water with the door open. I encourage them to sit on top of it by making that the "treat station." I also throw catnip, a toy or a few treats inside now and then for them to find.
• Spend time with the cat and the carrier without locking him in when you can. It may take awhile before he trusts you near it, but keep putting treats in, sitting down near it where he can see you or approaching and talking to him while he's in or near it. Eventually he'll stop dashing off when you do.
• Use a hard carrier, not a soft-sided one. A resistant cat can grab a fabric carrier with their claws and drag it along instead of going inside. I prefer one with a normal front door that also opens along the top, in case you need to lay an injured or immobilized cat flat without trying to slide it in. *Practice with your carrier and test the latches before putting the cat in, every time. You want to be able to operate it smoothly and discover any problems before you have an upset kitty to contend with.

For the deed itself:

• Have the carrier ready ahead of time with the door open. You don't want to draw undue attention to it.
• Get in the floor and relax with your cat near the carrier. Give him attention and treats if he's allowed them.
• Artfully try to position him facing you, with his back end at the open door. You want to try to back him in calmly and steadily. When his front legs are at the opening or inside, hold your hand against his chest and shut the door smoothly.
• Try to get him walking backwards using play or treats. I've had success with different cats in different ways, so you'll have to see what works. Test them out without shutting him in to see what works.
• Playful/petting the cat in: A cat that melts for head scritches and affection is usually easy enough. When they're really getting into your attention, just keep scratching while pushing just enough to move them back a step at a time. If they start to hesitate or turn around, just move your hands to the shoulders and back them inside with a smooth, quick and confident motion and close the door. You may be able to keep scratching with one hand while walking them back with the other, or you might have to use both. Either way, if the cat hesitates, just move him through the door quickly so he won't have time to react.
• Some cats can be lured inside fully or partially, or led in face-first. Most of mine go in like this so it's worth a try. I just sit and talk to them about it until they make any move to look inside, then quickly guide them in. It helps to put your hands just behind the front legs, cupping under the chest with your fingers, with your forearms lying along the body. You pushing behind the front legs makes their back legs automatically follow and the arms along the body act like rails, guiding them straight in and preventing an easy turnaround to try to exit. For them, it's a little bit like being held and a bit like being petted, so they don't usually resist until it's far too late and the carrier is closed.
• If your cat is just going to fight no matter what, you can Google safe ways to "burrito wrap" the cat. That's traumatic for him though and will make him less trusting of the carrier next time, so avoid it if possible. And if you do have to do it, please ask the vet for assistance and a demonstration when you're there. You certainly want to do it safely!

Once the cat is in:

• Wrap the carrier with a dark towel. Most cats are distressed by seeing the motion of the carrier.
• Clear your path. Have the door and car door open or get your assistant in place to help you move the cat quickly. You don't want to distress the cat by repeatedly picking up the carrier and fumbling with keys.
• Don't use the handle on the carrier - carry it in your arms, supporting the bottom, and holding it as flat and stable as possible. It feels more secure for the cat and is much safer. Handles can break, traumatizing the cat with a fall or even letting them escape.
• Minimize the amount of time in the carrier by going straight to the vet and back. Drive smoothly, brake gently and take turns easily so you're not jostling your pet more than necessary. Talk to him steadily to reassure him that it's okay.

If you make the whole trip as not-unpleasant as possible, your cat will be less likely to fight tooth and nail in the future.