It seems that everyone else commenting loves it, so I don’t know what I did differently but I have the opposite impression. I’ve lived in Italy for almost a decade now and have done a lot of ‘internal tourism’ across the country since then - and Naples is by far my least favourite place. It most reminds me of all the downsides of Mumbai - the crowd, the smell, the poverty, the crumbling infrastructure and lack of safety. But none of the positives - the colour and excitement and vibrancy of everything in the world being pushed together in a complex mix.

No, my experience of Naples was angry people disrespecting their own place showed them equal distain right back. I have yet to find any redeeming features.